Face shapes and earrings. A useful guide you should feel completely free to ignore.
- Sue Dunmore
- Sep 21, 2025
- 3 min read
Updated: Apr 5
There's a version of this conversation that starts with a tape measure and ends with a list of rules about what you're allowed to wear near your face.
This isn't that conversation.
The truth about face shapes and earrings is that the guidelines are genuinely useful as a starting point and completely irrelevant the moment you find a pair that makes you feel like yourself. Both of those things are true at the same time.
So here's the information worth having, offered without obligation.
Finding your face shape
Pull your hair back and look in the mirror. Most faces fall roughly into one of six shapes and knowing yours can be a helpful shortcut when you're not sure where to start.
Round. Your face is roughly as wide as it is long with full cheeks and a soft jawline. Oval. Slightly longer than wide with balanced proportions, the shape most earring guidelines are written for. Square. A strong angular jawline with forehead, cheeks and jaw all similar widths. Heart. Wider at the forehead tapering to a narrower chin. Diamond. Widest at the cheekbones with a narrower forehead and jaw. Oblong. Noticeably longer than wide with straight sides.
If you're not sure which you are that's fine too. Most faces sit somewhere between two shapes and the guidelines still apply loosely enough to be useful.
What actually works and why
The logic behind face shape guidelines is simple. Contrast and balance. Earrings that contrast with your face shape tend to create a sense of harmony. Earrings that echo your face shape tend to emphasise it. Whether you want to emphasise or contrast is entirely up to you.
For round faces longer drop earrings and linear designs create length and definition. Wide horizontal styles and large circular hoops emphasise roundness, which is not a problem if you love them.
For oval faces almost everything works which is why most earring guides are written with oval faces in mind. Very long thin styles can over elongate and very wide designs can overwhelm but the range is genuinely broad.
For square faces curved and circular shapes soften a strong jawline beautifully. Hoops, organic forms, flowing drops. Angular geometric designs echo the angles already there, again not a problem if that's the look you're after.
For heart faces earrings that are wider at the bottom than the top create visual balance. Chandelier styles and teardrop designs work particularly well. Very wide studs and top heavy designs emphasise the wider forehead.
For diamond faces the cheekbones are already the standout feature. Delicate drops and oval hoops complement them without competing. Very wide designs at cheekbone level can overwhelm.
For oblong faces wider styles and circular designs add horizontal emphasis and break up length beautifully. Long vertical drops emphasise length further, which some women love and others don't.
On the subject of studs
A well chosen stud is one of the most versatile things in any earring collection. The shape matters more than most people realise. Round faces tend to suit angular studs. Square faces suit rounder ones. Heart and oval faces suit almost any shape. Diamond faces suit detailed studs that draw attention to the cheekbones.
At Porini studs are made in solid precious metals with enough character to be interesting and enough simplicity to work with everything. The kind of earring you put on without thinking and reach for again the next morning.
On hoops
Size creates entirely different effects. A small hoop under 2.5cm is universally flattering and works in almost any setting. Medium hoops between 2.5 and 5cm suit oval and diamond faces particularly well. Larger statement hoops are stunning on oval faces and worth trying regardless of what any guide tells you if you love them.
The part where we contradict everything above
The guidelines exist. They're useful. And the woman who looks most like herself is almost never the one following them most carefully.
She's the one who tried something on, felt something shift, and bought them regardless of whether they were supposed to work for her face shape. She's the one who wears the wide hoops with the round face because she loves wide hoops. The one who stacks mismatched studs because that's how she feels today.
Rules are a starting point. Instinct is where you actually live.
At Porini we make earrings in solid precious metals across every style in this guide. Studs, hoops, drops, organic forms, hammered textures, pearls, gemstones. Each one made by hand in our New Zealand studio with enough consideration that they work with your face and enough character that you'll reach for them because you love them.
Start with the guidelines if they're helpful. Abandon them the moment something better comes along.
That's the whole guide really.
Every earring at Porini is made by hand in solid precious metals in our New Zealand studio. Enough character to be interesting. Enough simplicity to reach for without thinking.





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